Installation of Kevin’s 2.5 inch budget boost, bump stops and longer replacement shocks

By Derik L.

 What you will need:

 A Jack
Jack stands
15mm and 18mm sockets, wrenches, and socket extensions
Channel locks
Vice grips
Rubber mallet and Hammer
Flathead screwdrivers
McPherson Strut Spring Compressor
Pipe cutter (Doetsch Tech shocks only)
WD40
Undercoating (optional)

You will also need four new M8x1.25 nuts, four new M8x30mm bolts, four M8 flat washers and four M8 lock washers.  Alternately, I've used 5/16" SAE bolts/nuts/washers with success.   

Do it right the first time, buy the bump stops and the longer shocks.  Doing things over again really blows :)  With that said, lets get started.

THE REAR:

1.  Loosen the wheel lugs and jack the vehicle up under the rear differential.  Place jack stands under both sides.  I like to put shop rags on the contact points of the stands to prevent the vehicle’s protective paint from being scratched (I live in Wisconsin and often think about rust prevention :)).  Leave the vehicle jacked up so that the springs remain compressed and vehicle is slightly off the stands.

2.  Remove the wheels.  Remove the rear shocks (15 mm).  Unbolt the sway bar at both sides from frame contact point (15 mm).

3.  With springs still compressed you can just put the spring compressors in place on either side you choose to start with.  Just snug them down.  If you have two sets of compressors, great, do both sides now.

4.  Now you’re ready to let the jack down, do it slowly and make sure the vehicle is falling onto the jack stands correctly!

5.  If your jack stands were set high enough you should be able to simply pull the springs out on both sides by hand.  Since I am working with one set of spring compressors, as most of you may be, let’s put that spring we already compressed to the side for now and install the uncompressed one first.  In effect we will be swapping sides with the springs, you’ll see why.  Work smarter, not harder.

6.  With the springs out it’s time for some bump stop installation.  Really simple stuff, use the self-tapping bolts included in the set, Jeep even left us a factory hole just for the occasion.  Take care not to over tighten, snug will do fine or you may strip the hole.  I like to put a covering of undercoating between the frame and bump stop.  Here’s a picture, notice the partially installed bump stop in the background:

7.  Now we can install the budget boost spacer, leave the factory rubber protector where it is and slide the budget spacer on.  By force you will only be able to get them about halfway on.  No problem, don’t waste your time banging away at it with a hammer like a crazed monkey (I did), just install the uncompressed spring and jack up that side under the lower control arm until it pops on.  Leave your jack in place and install the shock .  Now go to the other side and do the same steps with your compressed spring.  Let your jack down only after you have installed the compressed spring, it will give you more room to work with.  The complete picture:

A note on the Doetsch Tech shocks:
They do not come with the proper metal fitting for the rear frame mount (shown in above picture, upper left side).  The pieces are either too long or too short.  If you use the short ones you will bend your frame mounts when installing the shocks and they still may not fit correctly.  This is where your pipe cutter comes in.  Measure the lengths from your factory shocks (I eyeballed it) and cut the fittings that come too long.  Shown here:

8.  Reinstall your sway bar, wheels and here’s what you will have.

A set of meats in the back and maybe grow a mullet?  Nah.

THE FRONT:

1.  Same steps as the rear, are you surprised?
Just a few notes:
A.  Install your bump stops when the springs and shocks are out leaving the front axle pretty much laying on the ground, you will need the room (be careful not to overstretch your brake lines!).  They are a pain to pry out of the vehicle,  spray a little WD40 on them to ease the reinstall.  Also, like the rear bump stops I undercoated where metal and aluminum contacted.  Here’s what it all looks like:

B.  Unlike the rear, the factory rubber comes off before installing the budget boost spacers, then gets placed over the spacer.  Have a look:

C.  The front shocks do not come with replacement nuts and bolts for the axle attachment and the factory ones are NOT reusable.  You will need four new M8x1.25 nuts, four new M8x30mm bolts, four M8 flat washers and four M8 lock washers.  Alternately, I've used 5/16" SAE bolts/nuts/washers with success. 

Time elapsed: 7 hours including a ride to the parts store and some minor surprises.  Hope I saved you some time and frustration!  Questions or comments?  E-mail me, Dfreeridz@aol.com

A tribute to my ‘98 XJ Classic.  Pics taken in Moab, Utah during the Jeep Safari ‘02.  3.5 inch Rubicon Express lift (2 days of install frustration), 31 10.50s.  It was totaled in a car accident.  These tires and rims will be going on the WJ via custom wheel adapters.