Thank you for ordering Kevin's Radiator
Support / Tow Points for your Grand Cherokee. The install of
this product will typically take you around 1-2 hours,
assuming you don't have the UpCountry Package (add an extra
hour for UpCountry). Included in the packaging should be four
black Grade 8 metric bolts that are 35mm long. These four
bolts run upward, through the radiator support and into the
factory bolt threads. The four bolts that you remove from the
factory radiator support will be reused for the upper
horizontal mounting bolts, so don't lose them! You'll need to
gain access to the inside of the frame rails from the front,
which typically means the removal of the front bumper unless
you have a Limited and want to go in through the removable
front bumperettes (there is styrofoam cutting involved
here...kind of a pain).
Step 1: Get the necessary tools
together. A 13mm, 15mm, and 19mm socket, ratchet, large flat-blade screwdriver, sheet
metal shears (or metal-working scissors), pencil and hacksaw.
Step 2: Remove the front
bumper following this excerpt from the 1993 Grand Cherokee
Factory Service Manual:
o Remove 3 grill screws
at grill opening upper reinforcement and remove grill.
o Remove the 6 retainers
at the front facia, 3 from the top and 3 from the bottom. (Be
careful not to damage these as you'll re-use them.)
o Remove the 3 plastic
rivets from each wheel well that holds the splash guard to the
o Slider the entire
bumper facia off the retainer pegs at the sides of the upper
bumper, directly under the turn signal. A long, flat-blade
screwdriver works best.
o Set the bumper aside
where it won't be damaged.
Step 3: Remove the four
bolts that hold the factory radiator support upward with a
15mm socket, against the frame and the four bolts that hold
the diagonal side braces between the radiator support and the
fenders. The radiator will be held by the hoses...but it will
move downward about an inch. (note: some people have asked me
about the diagonal braces and what happens when they are
removed. I took mine out over two years ago, have wheeled the
Jeep hard, and haven't seen any sort of negative effects. I
suspect that they are there for additional bracing for the
fenders). Also, remove the horn assembly from under the
passenger side of the bumper area.
Step 4: Locate the two
alignment dowels that are attached to the bottom of the
radiator. Take the hacksaw and trim these back about 1/2"~3/4"
so that they sit into the holes, but clear the bottom of the
beam of the new radiator support. If you have a 2.5L TD model
(Europe only), you may have to drill new holes in the radiator
support beam, as these models have a different radiator, and
differently located alignment dowels. Locate the rubber grommets
that may have stuck to the old radiator support. You can reuse
these to counteract vibrations. They may need to be trimmed,
Step 5: Put the new
radiator support in place making sure that the shackle loops
are facing forward. This is sort of difficult to do if you
have no helper. I lay on my back, perpendicular to the Jeep
and use my knee to push upward on the radiator support to get
the vertical bolts into the factory bolt holes on the drivers'
side first. Turn around 180* and do the same on the passenger
Step 6: Locate the
horizontal holes on the upper portion of the new radiator
support. You will be placing the four factory bolts that you
removed through these holes, two on each side. Locate one of
the nut plates. Slide it inside the frame rail and thread both
of the factory bolts into the nuts on the other side of the
frame rail wall.
Step 7: Repeat Step 6
for the other side.
Step 8: Assure all bolts
are tight, then place the front bumper facia on the two
retainer pegs again. Do not reattach any of the other mounts
at this time. Visualize how the tow strap will attach to the
shackles on the radiator support. The bumper facia that is in
the way between the shackle and the person pulling you forward
will need to be trimmed back.
Step 9: View the picture
KevinsOffroad.com/club.html and check out how other
people have trimmed. Now, take a pencil and trace the lower
part of the bumper where you'd like to trim. There are several
ways to do it:
o Leave the lower grill
slotted portion in front of the lower radiator but trim on
o Trim across the entire
bumper evenly so that it's level (personally I like this best)
o I dunno...what did YOU
come up with? Send me a picture. Here are some to look
Step 10: Start slowly
cutting away the lower part of the bumper with the shears. I
traced the line that I wanted with the pencil, but then cut 1"
below it so that I can see how it's looking in the process
rather than cutting off too much to begin with and being
unhappy with it. Just take it slow and look at it while you're
cutting. Keep in mind there will be things behind the bumper
that you'll have to cut around, so make sure you're familiar
with the backside of the bumper so that you are prepared for
whatever items/angles you need to cut around.
Step 11: Stand back and
admire your work. If you are running larger than 31" tires,
you will probably want to (or have already) trimmed the
rearward lower portion of the bumper that forms the wheel
well. I cut mine back all the way to the pin-slide assembly on
the reverse of the side of the bumper for maximum flex without
rubbing. Without looking at another rig, you'd think that mine
was factory. Check out the picture gallery for ideas on where
to cut. When you are happy with where you've trimmed, go back
and reattach the rubber wheel well pieces and trim them to
That's it! You're ready
to go wheeling with your large approach angle increase, your
heavy duty protection for the radiator, and the tow points
that you can now be pulled out with. Enjoy!!!