Grand Cherokee ZJ: 93 - 98
Installation Instructions

Thank you for purchasing the finest in underbody protection for your Jeep Grand Cherokee…blah…blah…blah…

 

Just kidding.  I expect it will take about 4-6 hours for someone with a moderate ability to install these.  Just take your time, and they should go on great.  Call me if you get stuck: 602.841.3355. 

 

Take care, and let me know what you think when you are all finished.

 

Very Sincerely,

Kevin

 

 

Here are the tools you will need to install the sliders:

  • Hammer and Vice Grips
  • Nail or other sharp point that you can use for a marking device.
  • Ratchet set that includes a 3/8”, 16mm and 9/16" sockets. (Self-threading screw-bolts included in packaging)
  • Drill motor with a 1/8” and 5/16" drill bits
  • 2 Jack Stands
  • Floor jack

 

I grind down the welds to make it pretty and used a wire wheel to clean up the welding splatter, but you will need some paint thinner or turpentine to get the protective oil off of the steel before you finish the exterior of the sliders with paint of some sort before the install.  I recommend just a simple can of Krylon Semi-Flat Black spray paint, as you can easily touch up as needed once you bump a rock.  Other methods include powder coating, underbody coating, and POR-15.  I used the rattle-can method on mine because I like to touch them up every few months to them looking good.  I use a piece of cardboard about 12” x 18” to insert between the Jeep and slider to catch any overspray from the spray paint, and hose it down with the new paint. There are some unwelded seams that I recommend you applying some black epoxy or RTV to so that they won't rust if you live in a wet climate.  It's impossible to get the head of the welding gun to those areas, and there is no structural difference between welding those areas or not welding them. 

   

  1. After they are painted and ready for install, it’s time to get started on the install.  I recommend that you begin with whichever side of the Jeep that has the least amount of damage, so that you are familiar with the procedure when you have to do the dented up side that will take a little more effort.   If the pinch weld is dented, try to hammer or “vice-grip” it back into place as much as possible if you have mashed it. 

    2.  If you have the Laredo version, the lower cladding will either need to be removed permanently, or removed to trim as shown in the photo below.  When you put the cladding back on the Jeep, leave off the lower "buttons" that hold the cladding up.  They are no longer necessary, and they will keep the Rock sliders from sitting up flush with the rocker panel.

     

         p have the slider modified by a shop locally.  It’s only happened once, but be forewarned if u have damaged your rock

  1. Now, get out your jack stands and position them about 60” apart and extended until they are 3” under the Jeep’s rocker panel.  Now, lift the slider into place to visualize how it attaches and to become familiar with the install instructions (I suggest you read the remainder of the instructions NOW…my momma always said “haste makes waste”, right?) :)

 

   

  1. Extend the jack stands to lift the sliders up higher, until it sits flush with the body, assuring that it is centered front to rear (position it 1" closer to the rear if you are running 35" or greater tires) and the forward brace is between the frame rail and the cross member.  You may need to bend the secondary bracing tabs inward slightly so that they will slide into place inside of the pinch seam area.  Place one of the jack stands under the rear leg and the other jack stand just outboard of the front leg on the main body of the Slider.  Mark the frame rail holes carefully, making sure that the rock slider isn’t moving around and that it is sitting in the EXACT spot that you want it attached.  Drilling into the frame rails isn’t something you’ll want to do over and over until you get it right!  This is where a right-angle drill comes in handy, or you can remove the jack stands, let the jack down, and remove the slider before drilling if you prefer.  A quicker method is, instead of marking the holes, simply drill the holes into the frame rail through the bolt hole in the brackets with the 5/16" drill bit with as good of an angle as you can get with the drill.  The bolts will go in slightly crooked, but will straighten out once they are tightened.  Due to the slightly oval shape that will be caused by the drill bit not being at a 90* angle, I recommend doing it the "long" way and removing the Slider before drilling.  On the other hand, others have used the "quick method" and have had zero problems to date.  It's your rig/time...you choose what is best for YOU.    4b) If you ordered the Extreme Duty LP1 model, please take the time now to notch out your pinch seam area so that they will fit flush with the rocker panel.  

 

  1. Next step is to drill out the 6 holes into the frame rail with the 5/16” drill bit, using the 1/8” bit to pilot the holes first.  Again, double check to assure that everything is in the right spot before you start drilling.  I’ve found that if you use the smallest drill motor to increase access area and the pilot drill bit, this seems to work best.

 

  1. Thread the 6 self-tapping bolts into the frame rails and tighten them down slowly.  The frame rail, as you have already found out, is NOT very thick, and with one twist too many on the self-tapping bolt, you will find that you have stripped the hole you just drilled.  I feel strongly that a LITTLE accidental stripping is OK, but don’t keep twisting and twisting, as you will hollow out the frame rail even more, and the bolt won’t fit tight.   If you really strip it out good accidentally, you can get larger bolts from a nut and bolt company, such as Copper State Nut and Bolt  (www.copperstate.com) or your local ACE Hardware store (may have to special order them), and drill a slightly larger hole to fit the larger bolt.  Don’t lose any of the bolts…they cost about $.60 each.

 

  1. After you get all the frame rail bolts tight, you can focus on the secondary bracing into the pinch seam.  Assure that the slider is ALL THE WAY flush against the rocker panel before you begin.  You can do this by cranking up the jack under it until it lifts the Jeep’s body (not the tires) up 1”-2" or so.  If necessary, tap the secondary mounting plates outward into place toward the rocker panel with a hammer, then drill 1/8” pilot holes into the inside panel of the rocker panel through the secondary bracing. 

 

  1. Now, thread a small self-tapping sheet metal screw into each of the eight holes and tighten them down (don’t strip these either!)  These bolts will give you the upward bracing that you will need in order to use them as a step for easy entry, for roof rack access, or for them to wash the roof at the carwash.

 

  1. Lower the jack down slowly, and check your work.  You should now be able to stand on the slider with your full weight and access the roof rack.  Look it over and make sure that you got all the bolts as tight as you can without stripping them.

 

  1. Now you are ready for the other side.  Repeat steps 1-9.

 

  1. This is the fun part…TRAIL TEST TIME!  Have fun with them!  But, please, let me know what you think.  I need to know if you had a difficult time with fitment or with the install itself so that I can make changes for the future.  Please e-mail me at sales@kevinsoffroad.com and give me some feedback.

Thanks for your purchase!  Let’s go Jeepin’, Baby!

Very Sincerely,

Kevin

Tech tip: Some customers have attached non-slip tape to the top so that your foot doesn’t slip off in wet weather when you’re climbing up for roof access.

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