WJ INSTRUCTIONS   ZJ INSTRUCTIONS   XJ INSTRUCTIONS

WJ Packing Slip:

Roof Rack and mesh panel (if ordered).  Hardware as follows: (8) 5/16" x 2" long carriage bolts, (12) 5/16" flat washers, (12) 5/16" nuts, (4) pcs. 1.5" channel x 4" long with two holes, (4) pcs. 3/4" wide x 4" long flat with two square holes, (2) EMT clamps for shovel mount (needs to be drilled to 3/8" hole), (2) 3/4" x 2.25" flat tabs for shovel mount, (2) 3/8"x3" bolts for shovel mount, (2) 3/8" coupler nuts for shovel mount, (2) 3/8" t-handles for shovel mount, (2) 1/2"x3.5" bolts for HiLift mount, (2) 1/2" coupler nuts for HiLift mount, (2) 1/2" t-handles for HiLift mount, (2) pcs. 1/2" x 7" long all-thread for tire mount, (2) 1/2" flat washers for tire mount, (4) 1/2" nuts for tire mount.

On the WJ, remove the rear Torx screws on the factory roof rails that hold the rear end-caps on.  Remove the factory roof rails by sliding them rearward out of the slots.  Now, insert 2 Carriage bolts upward through one of the 3/4" flat steel segments that are 4" long. Insert this into the roof rail with threads upward, sliding them forward. 1 1/2" channel goes on top of that, flat part facing upward.  Now, find one 5/16" flat washer and one 5/16" nut and put one on each of the *OUTER CORNER* carriage bolts (the four of the eight total bolts that are closest to the outer corner of the Jeep; *NOT* the inner ones), tightening them finger-tight so that the mount will slide forward and rearward, but won't come off the rail.  Repeat this 3 more times, placing two mounts on each roof rail, all of them finger-tight.  Now, place the rack on the roof with help from a friend, aligning the mounts with the outside set of holes on the rack's mounting tabs.  After they are in place, use a 1/2" end-wrench or socket to tighten the nuts down in place.  You now will have a VERY strong clamp on your roof rail...the strongest that I've seen, anyway, as it supports the rack both fore/aft and laterally at the same time.  Simply place another 5/16" flat washer and 5/16" nut on the top of the rack's mounting tabs, and tighten them firmly, holding the rack against the brackets.  Lastly, re-anchor the roof rail's end-caps with the Torx screws you removed earlier.  The 2" wide channel pieces with one leg longer than the other are used for the ZJ mount.  Keep them in a safe place.

The rest of the hardware is shovel mount, hi-lift mount and spare tire mount.

Spare tire mount: Thread one 1/2" nut onto each of the two pieces of all-thread, leaving about 1/2" of the threads showing on the other side of the nut.  The all-thread goes into the spare tire plate nuts located on the top of the rack in the center. The nut that you already screwed on becomes a lock nut after you thread in the all-thread through the nut plate.  Your spare tire goes outside down/inside up, then two washers and two more nuts to tighten it down.

Hi Lift mount: On the passenger side of the rack, insert two 1/2" x 3 1/2" bolts through the gusset brackets on the right side of the roof rack from the inside outward. Next, thread on a coupler nut to hold it in place. Holes are oval to accept both types of Hi-Lift Jacks, so make sure that they are spaced correctly for your jack before tightening them down securely. Place the jack on the threads, top toward the front and toe upward, then a 1/2" T-Handle goes on the outside to lock it down. You will need a Velcro strap or bungee cord to keep the jack handle from coming loose and hitting your roof on a bump, though. I found that it works best if the jack body is about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way UP the jack shaft to disburse weight as well as possible.  You will probably also want to remove the foot on the jack so that it doesn't rub the roof rack, and also to cut down on theft.  You MAY also elect to use foam rubber pipe insulation or maybe a bicycle inter tube over the handle of the jack to keep it tight and protected.

Shovel carrier: Same concept as the Hi-lift, but using 3/8" bolts and 3/8" couplers.  Next, place a 3/4" wide 2" long tab over the threads to serve as a backing for the shovel handle.  Then, the smaller semi-circular bracket goes on the forward bolt and the larger on the rearward one. A standard sized shovel will go on with the nose facing rearward. Lastly, the 3/8" T-handles go on over the semi-circular brackets to tighten it down.

Thank you for your purchase!  You now have a hand-built creation that's extremely tough, offers you lots of storage, looks great, and even protects you in the case of a roll-over as it will distribute the weight across the entire roof of the Jeep if ever you go over (God forbid).  I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine!!!

Very Sincerely,

-=Kevin=-

===============================================

ZJ Packing Slip:

Roof Rack and mesh panel (if ordered).  Hardware as follows: (8) 5/16" x 2" long carriage bolts, (12) 5/16" flat washers, (12) 5/16" nuts, (4) pcs. 1.5" channel x 4" long with two holes, (4) pcs. 2" wide x 4" long channel with two holes, (2) EMT clamps for shovel mount (needs to be drilled to 3/8" hole), (2) 3/4" x 2.25" flat tabs for shovel mount, (2) 3/8"x3" bolts for shovel mount, (2) 3/8" coupler nuts for shovel mount, (2) 3/8" t-handles for shovel mount, (2) 1/2"x3.5" bolts for HiLift mount, (2) 1/2" coupler nuts for HiLift mount, (2) 1/2" t-handles for HiLift mount, (2) pcs. 1/2" x 7" long all-thread for tire mount, (2) 1/2" flat washers for tire mount, (4) 1/2" nuts for tire mount.

On the ZJ, remove the rear Torx screws on the factory roof rails that hold the rear end-caps on.  Remove the factory roof rails by sliding them rearward and then re-anchor the end-caps with the Torx screws.   Now, insert 2 carriage bolts upward through one of the 1 1/2"  channel segments that are 4" long with the legs of the channel facing upward.  You'll notice that the holes are offset to one side.  Put that side toward the rail.  Now, insert that lip of the channel under the lip on the inside of your factory roof rail.  Next, place  the 2" wide channel segments that are 4" long, legs turned down (longer leg inside, shorter leg outside), over the top.  Now, find one 5/16" flat washer and one 5/16" nut and put one on each of the *OUTER CORNER* carriage bolts (the four of the eight total bolts that are closest to the outer corner of the Jeep; *NOT* the inner ones) tightening them finger-tight so that the mounts will slide forward and rearward, but won't come off the rail.  Repeat this 3 more times, placing two mounts on each roof rail, all of them finger-tight.  Now, place the rack on the roof with help from a friend, aligning the mounts with the inside sets of holes on the rack's mounting tabs.  After they are in place, use a 1/2" end-wrench or socket to tighten them down securely.  You now will have a VERY strong clamp on your roof rail...the strongest that I've seen, anyway, as it supports the rack both fore/aft and laterally at the same time.   Simply place another 5/16" flat washer and 5/16" nut on the top of the rack's mounting tabs, and tighten them firmly, holding the rack against the brackets.  The 3/4" flat steel segments that are 4" long are used for the WJ, and are NOT used on the ZJ.  Keep them in a safe place.

The rest of the hardware is shovel mount, hi-lift mount and spare tire mount.

Spare tire mount: Thread one 1/2" nut onto each of the two pieces of all-thread, leaving about 1/2" of the threads showing on the other side of the nut.  The all-thread goes into the spare tire plate nuts located on the top of the rack in the center. The nut that you already screwed on becomes a lock nut after you thread in the all-thread through the nut plate.  Your spare tire goes outside down/inside up, then two washers and two more nuts to tighten it down.

Hi Lift mount: On the passenger side of the rack, insert two 1/2" x 3 1/2" bolts through the gusset brackets on the right side of the roof rack from the inside outward. Next, thread on a coupler nut to hold it in place. Holes are oval to accept both types of Hi-Lift Jacks, so make sure that they are spaced correctly for your jack before tightening them down securely. Place the jack on the threads, top toward the front and toe upward, then a 1/2" T-Handle goes on the outside to lock it down. You will need a Velcro strap or bungee cord to keep the jack handle from coming loose and hitting your roof on a bump, though. I found that it works best if the jack body is about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way UP the jack shaft to disburse weight as well as possible.  You will probably also want to remove the foot on the jack so that it doesn't rub the roof rack, and also to cut down on theft.  You MAY also elect to use foam rubber pipe insulation or maybe a bicycle inter tube over the handle of the jack to keep it tight and protected.

Shovel carrier: Same concept as the Hi-lift, but using 3/8" bolts and 3/8" couplers.  Next, place a 3/4" wide 2" long tab over the threads to serve as a backing for the shovel handle.  Then, the smaller semi-circular bracket goes on the forward bolt and the larger on the rearward one. A standard sized shovel will go on with the nose facing rearward. Lastly, the 3/8" T-handles go on over the semi-circular brackets to tighten it down.

Thank you for your purchase!  You now have a hand-built creation that's extremely tough, offers you lots of storage, looks great, and even protects you in the case of a roll-over as it will distribute the weight across the entire roof of the Jeep if ever you go over (God forbid).  I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine!!!

Very Sincerely,

-=Kevin=-

===================================================

XJ Packing Slip:

Roof Rack and mesh panel (if ordered).  Hardware as follows: (8) 5/16" x 2" long carriage bolts, (12) 5/16" flat washers, (12) 5/16" nuts, (4) pcs. 1.5" channel x 4" long with two holes, (4) pcs. 2" wide x 4" long channel with two holes, (4) 4"x5" flat plates with 6 holes for XJ roof rack adapter plates, (16) 3/8" x 1" bolts for adapter plates, (16) 3/8" flat washers for adapter plates, (16) 3/8" nuts for adapter plates, (2) EMT clamps for shovel mount, (2) 3/4" x 2.25" flat tabs for shovel mount, (2) 3/8"x3" bolts for shovel mount, (2) 3/8" coupler nuts for shovel mount, (2) 3/8" t-handles for shovel mount, (2) 1/2"x3.5" bolts for HiLift mount, (2) 1/2" coupler nuts for HiLift mount, (2) 1/2" t-handles for HiLift mount, (2) pcs. 1/2" x 7" long all-thread for tire mount, (2) 1/2" flat washers for tire mount, (4) 1/2" nuts for tire mount.

On the XJ, remove the rear Torx screws on the factory roof rails that hold the rear end-caps on.  Remove the factory roof rails by sliding them rearward and then re-anchor the end-caps with the Torx screws.   Now, insert 2 carriage bolts upward through one of the 1 1/2"  channel segments that are 4" long with the legs of the channel facing upward.  You'll notice that the holes are offset to one side.  Put that side toward the rail.  Now, insert that lip of the channel under the lip on the inside of your factory roof rail.  Next, place  the 2" wide channel segments that are 4" long, legs turned down (longer leg inside, shorter leg outside), over the top.  Now, find one 5/16" flat washer and one 5/16" nut and put one on each of the carriage bolts, tightening them finger-tight so that they will slide forward and rearward, but won't come off the rail.  Repeat this 3 more times, placing two mounts on each roof rail, all of them finger-tight.  Place the 4"x5" adapter plates on the mounting flanges on the roof rack using (4) 5/16" x 1" long carriage bolts per plate, and a total of four plates. These bolts are not included in the kit.  Now, place the rack on the roof with help from a friend, aligning the mounts with the inside sets of holes on the rack's mounting tabs.  After they are in place, use a 1/2" end-wrench or socket to tighten them down securely.  You now will have a VERY strong clamp on your roof rail...the strongest that I've seen, anyway, as it supports the rack both fore/aft and laterally at the same time.   Simply place another 5/16" flat washer and 5/16" nut on the top of the rack's mounting tabs, and tighten them firmly, holding the rack against the brackets.  The 3/4" flat steel segments that are 4" long are used for the WJ, and are NOT used on the ZJ.  Keep them in a safe place.

The rest of the hardware is shovel mount, hi-lift mount and spare tire mount.

Spare tire mount: Thread one 1/2" nut onto each of the two pieces of all-thread, leaving about 1/2" of the threads showing on the other side of the nut.  The all-thread goes into the spare tire plate nuts located on the top of the rack in the center. The nut that you already screwed on becomes a lock nut after you thread in the all-thread through the nut plate.  Your spare tire goes outside down/inside up, then two washers and two more nuts to tighten it down.

Hi Lift mount: On the passenger side of the rack, insert two 1/2" x 3 1/2" bolts through the gusset brackets on the right side of the roof rack from the inside outward. Next, thread on a coupler nut to hold it in place. Holes are oval to accept both types of Hi-Lift Jacks, so make sure that they are spaced correctly for your jack before tightening them down securely. Place the jack on the threads, top toward the front and toe upward, then a 1/2" T-Handle goes on the outside to lock it down. You will need a Velcro strap or bungee cord to keep the jack handle from coming loose and hitting your roof on a bump, though. I found that it works best if the jack body is about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way UP the jack shaft to disburse weight as well as possible.  You will probably also want to remove the foot on the jack so that it doesn't rub the roof rack, and also to cut down on theft.  You MAY also elect to use foam rubber pipe insulation or maybe a bicycle inter tube over the handle of the jack to keep it tight and protected.

Shovel carrier: Same concept as the Hi-lift, but using 3/8" bolts and 3/8" couplers.  Next, place a 3/4" wide 2" long tab over the threads to serve as a backing for the shovel handle.  Then, the smaller semi-circular bracket goes on the forward bolt and the larger on the rearward one. A standard sized shovel will go on with the nose facing rearward. Lastly, the 3/8" T-handles go on over the semi-circular brackets to tighten it down.

Thank you for your purchase!  You now have a hand-built creation that's extremely tough, offers you lots of storage, looks great, and even protects you in the case of a roll-over as it will distribute the weight across the entire roof of the Jeep if ever you go over (God forbid).  I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine!!!

Very Sincerely,

-=Kevin=-